North Coast 500: From Durness to Applecross

The North Coast 500 is just one big 516-mile scenic route around the Highlands of Scotland, starting and ending in Inverness. As part of this route, you will go up or down the west coast from Durness to Applecross or vice versa depending on your direction.

For me personally, the west-coast is the best part of the NC500. The views are out of this world! From the dramatic mountains to the white sandy beaches - you'll really want to take your time on this part of the route! I can guarantee you'll make regular stops on the west-coast to admire the views. This part of the route is all about lovely walks and hikes, enjoying the beautiful beaches and if you're up for it, really experiencing the rugged scenery by taking part in some adventure sports.

This is a comprehensive guide detailing the route from Durness to Applecross including things to do, places to eat and places to stay. Follow along my NC500 blog post series to help you plan your best North Coast 500 trip.

This blog post covers...

The road from Durness to Applecross
How long should you take to do this part of the NC500?
Things to do
Places to eat
Places to stay
Additional optional places to visit along the way
My NC500 blog post series

The road from Durness to Applecross

From Durness to Applecross, you're going to want to stay on the roads as close to the coast as possible. Sat nav's will try and take you the quickest route on the main roads down the west coast. So, this is where looking at a map and planning your route is better than using your sat nav.

The roads this side on the NC500 are primarily single-track so you'll need to be confident driving on single-track roads, be patient as other drivers can be quite slow and be ready to stop loads in passing bays to let others pass.

For this leg of the NC500, you will not be sticking to the one road. Far from it actually. The following is a short summary of the roads, you should take to get the most out of the west coast. This might get a bit confusing...

From Durness, take the A838 to Laxford bridge.
At Laxford bridge, switch to the A894 which will take you over the Kylesku bridge and through Unapool to just after Newton.
Shortly after Newton, take the B869 through Drumbeg and Clachtoll. You'll then join the A837 to Lochinver.
There's an unmarked road south of Lochinver, which will take you along the west-coast to Drumrunie.
Then, you'll take the A835 road from Drumrunie through Ullapool to just past Braemore.
You'll then switch to the A832 after Braemore, which goes through Poolewe and Gairloch to Kinlochewe.
At Kinlochewe, you'll switch to the A896 road, which will take you past Torridon to just after Shieldaig.
After Shieldaig, you should take the unmarked road west to Fearnmore then down to Applecross.

How long should you take to do this part of the NC500?

It depends on how long you will be taking to complete your NC500 trip.

For a 5-day NC500 trip, I would suggest taking 2 days to get from Durness to Applecross. On the first day go from Durness to Ullapool and on the second day from Ullapool to Applecross.
For a 7-day NC500 trip, I would suggest taking 3 days to get from Durness to Applecross. On the first day go from Durness to Lochinver. On the second day from Lochinver to Gairloch and then on the third day, from Gairloch to Applecross.
For a 10-day NC500 trip, I would suggest taking 4 days to get from Durness to Applecross. On the first day go from Durness to Lochinver. On the second day from Lochinver to Ullapool. On the third day from Ullapool to Poolewe then on the fourth day, from Poolewe to Torridon or Applcross. This will give you plenty of time to do lots of sightseeing.

Things to do

Places:

As you go from Durness to Applecross. You will pass through Kylesku, Unapool, Clachtoll, Lochinver, Ullapool, Poolewe, Gairloch, Torridon and Shieldaig, to name a few. The majority of these villages are tiny but they are absolutely beautiful!

This is just some of the views you can expect along the west-coast.

Ullapool is the biggest village on the west-coast, with a population of around 1500. You should definitely stop off here for a bit of sightseeing, a nice lunch or dinner and a trip to a pub to experience the local nightlife. You might even catch an impromptu jamming session (video below), which is a real treat!

Castles:

There's not many castles on the west-coast but here's two which are worth a visit...

Hermits Castle, Achmelvich - The smallest castle in Europe, potentially even the world! It was built in the 1950s and measures 10m squared in area. Like King Ludwig II who built the incredible Neuschwanstein Castle in Balvaria as a retreat to get away from people, David Scott built Hermit's Castle for the exact same reason. Just on a less grandeur scale, but still impressive!

Ardvreck Castle, Loch Assynt - This ruined castle is three storeys high and was built by the Macleod clan during the 15th century on a patch of land on Loch Assynt. Historically, it's been the focal point of many local clan battles and is most well-known for its role in 1650, when James Graham, Marquis of Montrose, was betrayed here and handed over to his enemies. You can wonder around the castle ruins free of charge. I really enjoyed visiting this castle, mostly because the weather we got that day was amazing!

Calda House - This is just along the road from Ardvreck Castle, so whilst you're visiting that you may as well go to see Calda House. Calda House was a large mansion, which has turned to ruins and was built to replace Ardvreck Castle. The house was burnt out by the MacRaes in 1760 and was never restored. The ruins are said to be haunted.

Museums:

If you're looking for something more cultural, I've got you covered...

RhueArt Gallery, near Ullapool - This art gallery opened in the 1980 on the shores of Lochbroom. It features diverse and contemporary art by established and emerging artists. The art gallery is visitable by appointment all year round, and bookable by phoning the gallery.
Russian Arctic Convoy Exhibition, Birchburn - Loch Ewe had an important role in WW2 being the point of departure for many of the convoys bound for the Soviet Union, delivering aid to bolster its defences against the invading German forces. This museum is a legacy to those who risked their lives by braving the arctic waters under enemy attack. It was deemed by Winston Churchill as the "worst journey in the world". You can visit the museum in Birchburn to learn all about the Russian Arctic Convoys right where it happened.
Pool House, historic home and museum, Poolewe - This museum is a proper step back in time. It's a 300-year old house which has kept its character allowing you to delve back into its past. It was used as a courthouse before being used as a WW2 headquarters. There's also said to be some paranormal activity in the house too - eek!
Gairloch Museum, Gairloch - Located in a converted nuclear bunker, this museum celebrates the history, culture and natural heritage of the Northern Highlands. The museum has some really interesting displays and is well worth a visit. It's got a cafe and a shop too.
Deer Enclosure and Museum, Torridon - It can be pretty difficult to spot a red deer roaming around the hillsides, so why not increase your chances substantially by visiting the deer enclosure in Torridon. You can buy deer food at the countryside centre to feed them allowing you to get an even closer encounter with them. There's also a small museum on the ground to visit too.

Red deer stag — Photo by Diana Parkhouse / Unsplash

Distilleries:

Theres a severe lack of distilleries on the west-coast of the NC500 as transport links aren't well-established on this part. I could only find one distillery when researching this part of the route...

Badachro Distillery - This family-owned distillery is nestled in the hamlet of Badachro, overlooking Badachro Bay, Skye and the Outer Hebrides. They distil small batch vodka, gin and whiskey. They don't offer formal tours but are more than happy for you to pop in to the distillery for a quick visit. You can also stay at the distillery in their self-catering chalet, which looks incredible!

Beaches:

You are in for a real treat when it comes to beaches on the west-coast. There's far too many to cover so I've included the six beaches I visited on my own NC500 trip. Prepare for beautiful clear water, white sands and being on the west-coast, you've got a good chance of catching a wonderful sunset. If you want to go swimming, just know that the water is very cold year round.

Sandwood Bay Beach - Would you walk 4-miles to get to Britain's most beautiful beach (allegedly)? That's what is required of you to reach Sandwood Bay. It has no road access but the 4-mile walking path is fairly flat and can be accessed from the gravel car park at the hamlet of Blairmore. Being such a distance from the nearest road, means you'll be rewarded with a very peaceful beach overlooking Buachaille sea stack and Cape Wrath.
Scourie Beach - A good place to spot local seabirds. From the car park, you can walk to the cliff point which offers incredible views to Handa Island. If that's not enough to convince you to visit, just take a look at the colour of that water - it almost looks tropical, it's just a shame it's so cold!

Clachtoll beach - One of my favourites on the NC500 was Clachtoll beach. This beach is beautiful!! It has rugged terrain including the split rocks, which are worth venturing too. You can also camp in the nearby campsite.

Clachtoll Beach - one of my favourites on the NC500.

Achmelvich Bay - An absolutely stunning beach, which has a popular camping and caravan spot nearby. It's also right next to Hermit's castle so you can do a bit of sightseeing. It's a great place for watersports including kayaking, windsurfing and wind-skiing in the summer.
Achnahaird beach - Considered one of Scotland's best beaches, this beach is set in a very rural and peaceful spot surrounded by mountains. The area is a wildlife haven for wildcats, pine martens and even, golden eagles!
Mellon Udrigle Beach - Stunning beach which offers incredible views over the local Highland mountains. It's also got a caravan site for you to turn your visit into an overnight stay.

Waterfalls:

Wailing Widow Falls - In my opinion, this is one of the best waterfalls on the NC500. It's 15-metre high, located very close to Kylesku bridge and is only a short walk from either the Loch na Gainmhich Waterfall Car Park or the second unnamed car park, which is further down the A894. Neither of these car parks are well signposted so you'll just need to follow Google maps to their location.
Clashnessie Falls - This stunning waterfall is 15-metres high and is only a short signposted walk from Clashnessie beach car park. The path isn't well-defined and quite boggy, but it's worth it. I took this picture of it below when we visited at sunset and I thought the waterfall was really impressive.

Eas a' Chual Aluinn Waterfall - This is the highest waterfall in Britain. It's an impressive 200-metre high waterfall and when in full flow, it is three times higher than Niagara Falls! It's really difficult to get a full glimpse of this waterfall so this might be a good time if you've got a drone to send it out and let it do the work for you. Otherwise, it's a 6-mile hike to it, which will take you around 4-5 hours. The path is very boggy and then, it turns rocky and rough. The route will take you to the top of the waterfalls so make sure you take great care, although at this point you still won't be able to see the full drop of the waterfall. If you can't be bothered walking to it but still want to see it, you can get a boat tour from the harbour outside the Kylesku Hotel.
Falls of Kirkaig - The walk to the waterfall is around 4 miles and will take over an hour from Inverkirkaig. It's a well marked path but can get rocky and very steep in places so make sure you bring some decent footwear and walk with great care. The Falls of Kirkaig is a 18-metre high, powerful waterfall and the walk to it is mainly by the river, making it quite a relaxing and peaceful journey.
Victoria falls - You can park at the Victoria Falls car park. The car park has lovely views over Loch Maree, then its a short walk to the viewing area to see the falls. The falls are named after Queen Victoria, who visited them in 1877.

Walks/hikes:

If you're all about bagging munros, which is a mountain over 3000ft in Scotland, you're going to have your work cut-out on the west-coast as there is loads! I obviously can't mention them all in this one post but if you head over to this website, there's an interactive map to show you exactly where all the munros are: https://www.stevenfallon.co.uk/munro-map.html

If you aren't too bothered about bagging munros, here's a couple of nice walks and more challenging hikes you could do on the west-coast:

Old Man of Stoer - The Old Man of Stoer is a spectacular sea-stack. You can park at the Stoer Lighthouse, then walk 4.25 miles to the Old Man of Stoer, which will take around 2.5-3.5 hours. The walk is a bit rough and at times, theres no defined path. Since you'll be walking along the cliff edge, you'll need to be careful. For more information on the walk, follow this link: https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/ullapool/old-man-of-stoer.shtml
Ben More Assynt and Conival - You'll get two mountains, Ben More Assynt and Conival, for the price of one on this hike. At the top of this hike, you'll be rewarded with two rocky mountains, which are are the only munros in the Assynt and connected by a fine ridge. This is a very rough and rocky climb, so only climb if you are experienced and have the right kit. Follow this walkhighlands link for more information on the walk: https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/ullapool/benmoreassynt.shtml
Stac Pollaidh - Park at the Stac Pollaidh car park and start your ascent up the 510m high Stac Pollaidh. To hike this will take around 2-4 hours and to get to the true summit can be a bit of a scramble due to its sheer steepness. Making it one of the most difficult mountains to summit in the UK. Regardless if you make it to the summit or not, you'll be rewarded with incredible views over Loch Assynt none-the-less. Follow this walkhighlands link for more information on the walk: https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/ullapool/stacpollaidh.shtml

Rainbow Dreams — Photo by K B / Unsplash

Knockan Crag - This is a must-see on your NC500 trip and a very important geological site around the world. Knockan Crag was formed by the Moine Thrust, the force of two continents crashing together, which happened around 500 million years ago. The low cliff of Knockan Crag exposes rock which means you can actually see this for yourself! From the Knockan Crag visitors centre, it'll be around about a mile walk and should only take an hour. Follow this walkhighlands link for more information on the walk: https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/ullapool/knockancrag.shtml
Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve & Loch Maree - There's not one definitive route you can take in this beautiful Nature Reserve, in fact theres loads and it really depends on what you're looking for. If you park at the Coille na Glas-Leitir car park, you can take a trail through the woodlands or if you're looking for a proper challenge, you could tackle either Slioch mountain or Beinn Eighe mountain, both would take about 7-9 hours. Follow this walkhighlands link for more information on the hike up Beinn Eighe: https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/torridon/Beinneighe.shtml or slioch: https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/torridon/Slioch.shtml
Loch Coulin and Loch Clair - If you just want a nice flat walk then, this ones for you! This straightforward circuit will take you past Loch Clair and then, around Loch Coulin. Just because you aren't climbing, doesn't mean you have to compromise on views. The views from the loch over to Beinn Eighe are incredible! The walk will take about 2.5-3.5 hours and is around 5.5 miles. Although you can shorten it to your needs. Follow this walkhighlands link for more information on the walk: https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/torridon/Lochclair.shtml

Previously in my photographic exploits around Glencoe I’ve always found it hard to capture all three of the sisters. With my ultrawide 9mm lens, I was astounded to be able to capture this composition. — Photo by Ian Cylkowski / Unsplash

Adventure sports/excursions:

Adventure sports centres and companies tend to only run for the summer high season between April and September/October. Please check each website to find out if that company is open when you want to go and booking in advance is advisable.

Summer Isles Sea Kayaking, Ullapool - They offer kayaking and canoeing trips to the summer isles, Ullapool coastline, or Lochinver and the Assynt. You can book a tour or you can just hire the equipment for yourself. They also offer camping trips, lodge based holidays and family kayaking adventures if you're looking for a longer trip. Follow this link to their website to book: https://www.summerislesseakayaking.com
Shearwater Cruises, Ullapool - This company offers cruises departing from Ullapool harbour and goes around the summer isles, which are a beautiful collection of islands between the Minch and Loch Broom Pre-booking is essential and there is only two cruises a day, morning and afternoon. The cruise takes 2 hours and 15 mins. On your trip, you'll be treated to amazing views over the islands and may see a variety of seabirds and wildlife. Follow this link to their website to book: http://www.summerqueen.co.uk
Hebridean Whale Cruises, Gairloch - Choose from a 2.5 hour whale and wildlife tour, a 3 hour Shiant Island tour or a 4 hour ultimate orca tour. Yes, we do have orcas around the north of Scotland! These tours are all geared to spotting wildlife and you can book directly on their website: https://www.hebridean-whale-cruises.co.uk
Gairloch Canoe and Kayak Centre, Gairloch - This company offers kayaking, canoeing and stand-up paddle boarding. And something a bit more unique and special... a sunset kayaking tour - this sounds amazing, especially because the sunsets on the west-coast can be a real treat! Follow the link to their website to book: https://highlandexperiences.com/kayakgairloch/
Shellfish Safaris, Badachro - Are you looking for a completely unique, one-of-a-kind experience? Then, this is it! The only trip of this type in the UK. You'll get a 90-minute tour on a traditional wooden fishing boat where you'll learn about sustainable fishing, the history of the local area and haul fresh shellfish from the deep. Follow this link for their phone number or email to book a trip: https://shellfishsafari.co.uk
Shieldaig Outdoor Adventures, Shieldaig - This company offers a half-day walk or full day mountain walk. The latter is a good option if you want a guide to help you hike up one of the surrounding mountains. They also offer sea and loch tour around Loch Shieldaig, Loch Torridon or Loch Maree Island by canoe/kayak. Or if that doesn't float your boat, then they also offer archery. Follow this link to their website to book: http://shieldaigadventures.com

early man gets the catch. — Photo by KAL VISUALS / Unsplash

Other attractions:

Kylesku bridge, Kylesku - An impressive curved bridge designed to take in the splendour of the surrounding area. Its 275m in length ans opened to traffic in 1984, replacing the need for a car ferry over Caolas Cumhann. The best viewpoint of the bridge is a couple of minutes walk from the north car park. If you've got a drone, this is the ideal place to use it to get a better vantage point.

Bridge over troubled waters — Photo by K B / Unsplash

Stoer lighthouse - The lighthouse was built in 1870 after being identified as 1 of 45 sites in Scotland where a lighthouse was necessary to protect shipping. There's also two self-catering apartments in the keeper's house, if you wanted to stay at the lighthouse. This is also a wonderful place to watch the sunset over the cliffs.

Clachtoll Broch - About a 20-minute walk from Clachtoll beach is this broch. A broch is a drystone roundhouse, which was used for defensive structures, places of refuge for the community and their livestock. Clachtoll broch belonged to a farming family in the Iron Age until it was destroyed by a huge fire.
The Bone Caves, Inchnadamph - You can reach the caves by walking around 2 hours from the car park on the A837. When the caves were exacavated, they were found to contain the remains of species such as the lynx, polar bear and arctic fox, which all once roamed the area.
Corrieshalloch Gorge Viewpoint and Falls of Measach - A mile long box canyon through which the River Droma descends towards Loch Broom, forming the nearby 150ft Falls of Measach.
Inverewe House and Gardens, Poolewe - You can visit the museum in Inverewe House then wonder through the beautiful botantical gardens. Theres more to see than just exploring the house and gardens, theres plenty to do in the wider estate and you might even spot Scotland's big 5: red squirrels, red deer, otters, seals and golden eagles!

Squirrel on a branch — Photo by Ilnur Kalimullin / Unsplash

Places to eat

Cafes:

The Barrow, Kylesku - The Barrow is located at the Kylesky B&B and is open 3 days a week from March. It offers authentic Sicilian style pizzas, which you can eat in the dining area or if the weathers nice, out on the decking soaking up the sun.
Lochinver Larder, Lochinver - The Lochinver Larder is a famous pie shop on the west coast. The pies have became so popular that they can actually be sent directly to you, anywhere in the mainland UK. Once you try them, there's a good chance you'll be signing up for their "pies by post" service when you finish the NC500.
West Coast Delicatessen, Ullapool - They serve deli-filled rolls, toasties, soups, and salads from their cafe. A nice wee place to pop in for a light lunch. They've also got a delicatessen, where you can pick up quality local Highland produce for later.
Wee Whistle Stop Cafe, Loch Torridon - What a view from this place over the loch and the surrounding mountains! They offer all-day breakfast options, a wide selection of light bites and sandwiches and also, home-baked cakes and traybakes.
Roasters Highland Coffee Box, Poolewe - An Artisan Coffee Box in Poolewe serving Portuguese Coffee, Belgian Hot Chocolate, Spanish Churros and Stonebaked Sourdough Pizza. Need I say more.

Restaurants:

Kylesku Hotel, Kylesku - Located a stones throw away from the Kylesku bride is this award-winning Scottish restaurant and bar known for its fresh local seafood and not to mention, incredible views over the surrounding lochs! This restaurant is well worth a visit.
Clachtoll Fish and Chips, Lairg - I would highly recommend at least once on your NC500 journey, getting a fish and chips takeaway and taking it down the beach. This is the perfect time to do it because this fish and chip shop gets rave reviews and the beaches around here are beautiful - perfect combination!
Seafood Shack, Ullapool - A seasonal spot which serves fresh seafood from their little food trailor. They've had rave reviews and won a bunch of awards since opening in 2016 - you won't want to miss this on your NC500.
Gille Brighde Restaurant, Torridon - Sitting on the shores of Loch Torridon is the Gille Brighde Restaurant, which serves soups/starters, main courses and puddings/treats. That's not the only treat as the restaurant over looks sea, mountains and even, the Isle of Skye!
Applecross Inn, Applecross - A lovely little Scottish pub, offering not only proper hearty food but also, accommodation for the night. A nice place to stop off before tackling the Bealach na Ba the next morning! It's got lovely views over Applecross bay to the Isle of Raasay. I visited when I was on my own NC500 trip.

Authentic fish and chips made in a crispy batter served with golden fries and some delicious calamari. Fresh from a harbor shop in Hout Bay, Cape Town, South Africa. — Photo by Meelan Bawjee / Unsplash

Places to stay (off-peak prices)

Accommodation is quite pricey along the NC500, unless you have a motorhome/RV or are camping. It tends to also book up months in advance. In fact, it's usually the deciding factor on which direction you will take on the NC500. For my friends and I, we had to go clockwise on our NC500 as the accommodation choices were so limited. So, make sure you book your accommodation quickly!

Budget (£0-£75 per night)

Lochinver/Ullapool

Gairloch/Poolewe

Torridon/Applecross

Mid (£75-£150 per night)

Lochinver/Ullapool

Gairloch/Poolewe

Torridon/Applecross

High-end (£150+ per night)

Lochinver/Ullapool

THE BROCHS OF COIGACH

Two five star luxury eco holiday lets near Achiltibuie on the northwest coast of the Highlands of Scotland just off the NC500 road route and two hours from Inverness.

THE BROCHS OF COIGACH

Gairloch/Poolewe

Torridon/Applecross

Disclaimer: Some of the links above are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission for purchases made through links in this post. However, please note I only recommend products that I have verified and/or personally used.

Additional optional places to visit along the way

Isle of Lewis and Harris - If you have some time to spare, you could take the Calmac ferry from Ullapool to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis and Harris. The Isle of Lewis and Harris is the largest island in Scotland, found in the Outer Hebrides. There's lots to do from seeing the beautiful white beaches around the Island, the Callanish standing stones, visiting Lews Castle to going to the Isle of Harris distillery - enough to keep you busy for about 2/3 days. To view the ferry timetable and buy your ferry ticket, follow this link:

My NC500 blog post series

Contact me via the contact form to let me know how your North Coast 500 trip goes and if this post has helped you to plan your trip!